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March 31, 2008

Ida B...Gone

(photos by Lee Bey) 

The bulldozer is pushing aside the Ida B. Wells housing project at Pershing & King Drive.

Wells will be replaced seamlessly--completely--by a shiny, new mixed-income neighborhood. And there will be little trace of what (and dare I say who) had been there before.

I'll leave it to the eloquent public housing residents and activists to debate the merits or demerits of the Chicago Housing Authority's Plan for Transformation. I'm too tired. I'm too mad. Too fed up. The killing at Crane High School, followed by a fatal weekend shooting at Simeon, on top of all kinds of violence happening in many of the neighborhoods chronicled here has angered the Urban Observer.

As I took these photos, groups of young men to the north of me--young brothers not unlike me as I grew up in the Avalon Park neighborhood in the 1970s and early 1980s--were engaged in trades of the underground economy.

"That's all you can do," I thought as I watched them. "They are getting rid of you, and you don't even have sense enough to figure it out."

Or maybe they have figured it out, but are helpless to do anything about it. A lifetime of rotten schools, stifled chances, and ill-kept public housing has left many of these young men with the only trade they can practice. They found a semi-skilled job that can't be outsourced or right-sized away. They work for a company that can't up and move its operations to India, China or the Sunbelt. The rest of us should be so lucky.

Yet I confess: My gut tells me that these are not reasons, but excuses--a sweet poison that tastes so good going down, but has devastating results. Black people have always had a tough time in this country. But our ancestors fought--often at extraordinary risk to their lives--to learn, to create, to advance, to build. Not just the people who make the history books, either. There is hardly a black person I've talked to over the decades who didn't have at least one family member who actively risked what he or she had in order to move up the ladder just a little bit more.

And then I think about the act of power, courage and protest that created black urban America in the first place: millions of southern African Americans who got tired of the defacto slavery conditions in the Jim Crow South and moved north to find jobs and opportunities. Along the way, they changed for the better the social and political landscape of this country and fought for freedoms that all Americans enjoy. But I wonder what they would say if they could see so many of their grandchildren and great grandchildren investing in 20" rims, rather than real estate; and fighting and dying over Buck 50 hats rather than equality, jobs and justice.

I know, I know. All black folks don't live this way. Black people today by-and-large are better-educated and financially better off than in previous years. But drive around some of the black neighborhoods in Chicago--better still, pay attention in a few months as we experience what my cop friends tell me could be a bloodier-than-normal summer--and tell me if there aren't also more people who are lost, left behind and dying.

It's time for a movement. Not a protest. Not another march. But a movement...

Heck, I want to say more, but I'll stop. I've run far afield from architecture today (and you thought last week's post on the 1990s Jeremy Piven TV show "Cupid" was off topic...) so I'll cut bait and get back to the photos...

 

And we conclude with this church at 36th and Vincennes within the old Ida B. Wells campus. Built in 1880, the long-vacant edifice is the former Sixth Presbyterian Church. The facade is made of Lemont stone with Columbia sandstone details. The corner stone was set in 1879 and, according to the Chicago Tribune archives, its contents include a time capsule with a Bible, Gospel Hymn #8, list of church officers and copies of the Chicago Tribune, the Chicago Times and the Chicago Inter-Ocean newspapers.

 

 

 


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March 28, 2008

Cupid

How many truly great television shows have been set and shot  in Chicago? That's an honest question, not a criticism. I would say NBC's "Crime Story" from 1986 is one.

Besides that, what else is there? "Early Edition," from the late 1990s, but after that, I am drawing a blank.

This got me thinking about the cancelled-too-soon TV comedy "Cupid," which starred Jeremy Piven. Premiering in 1998 and lasting barely a season on ABC, the set-in-Chicago comedy centered on Piven who may (or may not) have been Cupid sent to earth. The cast included Paula Marshall as the psychiatrist assigned to him and the underrated Jeffrey D. Sams as his roomate.

 

"Cupid" was quick, smart and funny. Piven was excellent. The show had an eye for the city, throwing in locales such as Wrigleyville, south Michigan Avenue, the University of Chicago, and Bucktown. Marshall Field's made an appearance in one episode.  Shoot, the opening credits were cool enough, featuring the cast in and around Wacker Drive with The Pretenders song "Human" as the show's theme.

And further proof that Satan himself is the god of this world, "Cupid" got canceled after 15 episodes and "According to Jim" is--what?--still on after seven years?! Don't get me started.

Anyway, Cupid does live on on Youtube. If you click on the link above to see the opening credit,  you'll notice there are some complete episodes posted. Check em out.

BTW: In the opening paragraph, I was going to mention short-lived 1982 drama "Chicago Story." I remember it being a cool show, then I found the intro on YouTube and now I'm not so sure. You can see it at the 1:48 mark of this posting of 1982 tv show opening credits.

 

 

 

 


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March 26, 2008

Frozen Music

Although it has nothing to do with architecture, from time to time the Urban Observer's affection for Old School funk and R&B finds its way onto these pages. In fact, a post from a while back on Frank Lloyd Wright led me to start talking about Chic...
  Anyway, this link takes us to a 1982 music video of the 1970s/1980s vocal group Odyssey performing their best song, "Inside Out."  For years, it has puzzled me that the song sounds like Slave's "Watching You." That's because Slave's producer Jimmy Douglass and personnel--including the  group's incomparable bassist Mark Adams--are all present here. Enjoy both videos.


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Agora

(photo by Lee Bey)

At Roosevelt and Michigan. By artist Magdalena Abakanowicz.
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March 25, 2008

Yale Apartments

(photos by Lee Bey) 

By urban renewal or decay, a lot of Englewood's eastern edge has vanished over the decades. But somehow, the old Yale Apartments at 6565 S. Yale hung on. Three cheers that it has.

Built in 1893 to take advantage of the Columbian Exposition--just a short ride east on the new elevated train over 63rd Street--the Yale was one of three Chicago apartment houses where the units ringed a glass-topped interior atrium. (The other two are the Brewster Apartments on the North Side and the Mecca, which was demo'd in the 1950s to build IIT's Crown Hall.) 

 

It's a fine piece of Richardson Romanesque architecture designed by John T. Long, who's association with Louis Sullivan is evident in the building's detailing:

 

 

 

 

The building was a wreck as recently as the late 1990s. I toured the Yale with developer John Luce back then, not long after he acquired the building. He saw the vacant beauty while taking a shortcut home from a Sox game and bought it. The building was trash-filled and direlect in the worst way. We managed to get on the roof and it was so spongy, I figured we'd end up in the basement in no time. The city, particularly the Department of Housing rode to the rescue (along with historic tax credits because the building is listed on the National Register) and provided the cash to save this gem.

Today the Yale is senior citizens housing.

 


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March 24, 2008

A Bit of Beethoven

(photos by Lee Bey) 

The Urban Observer has a case of Midcentury Fever as of late. Please forgive.  

This is Beethoven School, near 47th and State. Built in 1961 for $1.1 million, the elementary school was designed wiith 42 classrooms (each a corner room), a lunchroom, library and other amenities. The school is composed of three classroom towers connected by enclosed walkways. When Beethoven was built, each tower was designed to function independently, each with its own administrative unit.


 

The school is well-maintained after nearly a half-century. The original color scheme has been preserved as have the glass-walled hallways that connect the classroom towers.

 

 

 

 

The school is the work of Perkins & Will.
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March 21, 2008

Good Design on a Good Friday

(photo by Lee Bey) 

Inside the 1104 S. Wabash Building at Columbia College.

 


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March 20, 2008

People

(photos by Lee Bey) 

Once again, obligations tug at the elbow of the Urban Observer, so here are some photographs I've taken of people. We'll return to the regularly scheduled program of architecture, urbanism and stuff tomorrow. The woman above is Leena, a model from France.

 

A beautiful grandmother modeling a dress designed by her granddaughter, who is a fashion student: 

 

 

Taheera, a writer and spoken-word artist:

 

I forgot this model's name, but she's wearing a dress designed by the student fashion designer discussed above:

 

 

Alliah, a bellydancer:

 

 

Saundra, a model. 

 

 

 Dawn Xiana Moon, a singer/songwriter:

 

 

K~fleye, a jewelry designer. 

 

 

 


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March 19, 2008

Where the Projects Were...

(photos by Lee Bey)

I was wandering around the old State Street public housing corridor a few days ago when I found this new place tucked behind State just south of 40th Street. The development, called Legends South, is being built by Brinshore Development and The Michaels Development Company.

As I drove through it, I thought the whole thing looked little too cartoony, colorwise; architecturally its a suburban development trying hard to look urban. And the parkways are too skinny and good lord, couldn't they have buried that utility pole there in the middle of photo above?

I still think I'm right. But the place grew on me.

 

 

 

It was nice to find this old firehouse still in business on the north end of the development.

 

 


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March 18, 2008

News from Overseas...

They call this a "sexy" bathroom. I would disagree. And so would you. Watch.

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Purple's Reign Extended?

(photos by Lee Bey) 

I drove by the Purple Hotel in north suburban Lincolnwood a couple of days ago, fully expecting the structure to be in the throes of demolition. It had been reported last year that the shuttered hotel at Lincoln and Touhy was sold and not long for this world. And yet for now, she stands...

 

The hotel is also a landmark in Chicago's organized crime history. Insurance millionaire Allen Dofman was shot to death gangland style in the hotel's parking lot in January 1983. He received seven slugs to the head a month after he was convicted of defrauding the Teamsters Union Central States Pension Fund. The Chicago Outfit. presumably. got to him before he could tell anything else  he knew. You remember the scene in the 1995 masterpiece Casino when Alan King's character Andy Stone gets gunned down in the parking lot? King's character (and his death) was based on Dorfman.

Coincidentially, the Purple Hotel was built on the site of the Fireside restaurant which was burned down by the mob in 1958. According to reports, masked men hid in the restaurant until after closing, rounded up the employees at gunpoint then spent two hours prepping the place to be torched. They let the employees out just before burned the place down. Authorities said the restaurant was destroyed as payback for its owner testifying before a U.S. House committee on the relationship between the Outfit and the restaurant workers union.

 

 

(Above: a hotel courtesy van still sits in the lot.) 

Back to the story: The Purple Hotel was built as the Lincolnwood Hyatt when it opened--purple color scheme and all--in 1961. The $3.5 million building was designed by Hausner & Macsai with an assist from the architecture firm of Friedman, Alschuler & Sincere. The hotel boasted 160 rooms and a ballroom that could fit 700.

I'll do a little digging into the hotel's future and report back. 

 



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March 17, 2008

The Prairie School...uh, School

(photos by Lee Bey) 

Chicago has a legacy of well-designed early 20th century schools. But there is none finer than Dwight Perkins masterpiece, Carl Schurz High School, 3601 N. Milwaukee. The Encyclopedia of Chicago has an entry on the school and some of its contemporaries. The city's Landmarks Division talks about the school as well. Meanwhile, take a gander:

 

 

 

I really wanted to spend some time photographing that great main entry, but the front of the school is gated off on weekends. So the above photo is as close as I could get. Anyway, Perkins was born 141 years ago this month (the anniversary of his birth is March 26.) He's connected to two other luminaries in architecture. His son, Lawrence Perkins (with Eero and Eliel Saarinen) designed the architecturally-influential Crow Island School in Winnetka IL, and founded the architecture firm Perkins & Will. Dwight Perkins' niece (and Lawrence Perkins' cousin) was architect Marion Mahony Griffin, a key member of Frank Lloyd Wright's studio and wife of architect Walter Burley Griffin.


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March 15, 2008

Interiors

(photo by Lee Bey) 

@ Columbia College Chicago 


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March 14, 2008

Under Construction

(photo by Lee Bey)

One Museum Park East residential tower @ Roosevelt near Indiana by Pappageorge/Haymes.


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March 13, 2008

Chicago: a place to work....a place to live...

 

 (images courtesy of the Chicago Central Area Committee)

My day job is executive director of the 50-year-old Chicago Central Area Committee, a group of prominent business folk devoted to improving downtown.

I've held this post since August, 2007. One of the perks of the gig: rummaging through the files. Today's find is a 1959 brochure, published by the CCAC, extolling the virtues of downtown.

Our guide is James E. Rutherford, the Midwest VP for Prudential Insurance Co. (this is a cool photo, btw)  who tells how glad he and his wife are about moving to our fair city. "We know now that the best move we ever made was our move to Chicago," he said.

The book is a bit of a guided tour of downtown and some suburbs. The photos show a downtown that bustles like Manhattan in those 1950s movies. No racial or ethnic minorities are depicted, with the exception of the elegantly-dressed server at the Hotel Pearson whom I assume to be a fellow Brother. And the book shows no women unless they are accompanied in the photo by a man.

Now on with the show... 

Look at this guy lighting up in broad daylight outside of the Inland Steel Building. He's landed the big account and now celebrates with a smoke.

 

 

I didn't recognize this building at all and wound up having to do some research that's still incomplete. This is (was?) the America Fore Building, apparently built at  360 W. Jackson in 1957 and designed by Loebl Schlossman & Bennett. Still can't place this building. I am wondering if the address I found is wrong...or did this building get demolished to build the Sears Tower.

*The building is still there, but has been altered. Thanks to reader Michael Hill who recognized the building and provided a contemporary view via Google Earth.

 

 

Here is a group of businessmen--and a set of tailfins--outside of the Lakeshore Club.

 

 

Chicago's nightlife included swinging at the jazz-friendly London House at Wacker and Michigan and, apparently, sitting alone and getting drunk at the Wrigley Building Restaurant.

 

 

Something you won't see today: The photo below on the left lists the surface parking at Grant Park as a top amenity! This eyesore was later covered up by Daley Bicentennial Park. The photo on the right shows a couple breezing through the Calumet Skyway, later the Chicago Skyway.



The book concludes with a rousing call to the business community to relocate downtown. "There is a giant-sized future unfolding here. And there's plenty of room in that future for more businesses and businessmen. Chicago is going places. And you're invited to go along."

 


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March 12, 2008

Lake Meadows Update #2

 

An update to the Lake Meadows post from a few days ago... 

Pershing School (above) at Lake Meadows is the work of SOM architect Jim Scheeler, according former SOM'er Gertrude Lempp Kerbis FAIA in her highly-entertaining oral history documented by the Art Institute of Chicago. Kerbis herself designed an athletic club at Lake Meadows the National Trust said was demolished last month, but Draper & Kramer says only a private restaurant (scroll down to the comments section) on the site was taken down.

 

 

Meanwhile, preservationist Grahm Balkany tells me his research shows the Lake Meadows Professional Building (above) is also designed by Scheeler and that it was built in 1960, rather than 1971.

In addition, the late SOM partner Ambrose Richardson also worked on Lake Meadows and discusses it in his AIC oral history as well.

 


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Urban Observer Road Trip

(photos by Lee Bey) 

The Urban Observer has some work to catch up on, so today's entry is devoted to the places I've seen on the increasingly rare chances I get to leave Chicago. The above sign is from a front porch in Grand Rapids, Michigan in 2006 and I believe it quotes the Apostle Paul....as in Paul Revere & the Raiders.

This boat rests colorfully in a canal in Amsterdam, 2005: 

 

And the Architecture Center Amsterdam, 2005:



A woman in Berlin, 2000:

 

Omar Akbar, director of the Bauhaus, Dessau Germany, 2000 

 

A big house in Helena, AR, 2004:

 

 


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March 11, 2008

When Egypt Came to Clark Street

(photos by Lee Bey) 

I just ran across some pix I took a while back of the Reebie Brothers Storage building on north Clark Street.

 

It gets tagged with graffiti pretty regularly. I would say somebody should make desecration of a Chicago landmark a crime, but then the jails would be full of developers (rimshot).

 

So at the risk of a little embarrassment, here I am, talking about this building more than 4 years ago on the city's ChicagoWorks cable television program. Two points before we proceed: I was a little heavier then, and I swear that suit wasn't as lime-looking in real life. You'll know what I mean when you get there.



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March 10, 2008

Urban Observer Update

Regarding the architect of Pershing School, a building mentioned in yesterday's post on Lake Meadows...

A big thanks goes to Skidmore, Owings & Merrill marketing guru Alena Cloud and her hard-working team who confirmed the school was designed by SOM's Chicago office. The Urban Observer wrongly guessed the building was by Perkins & Will...which explains why I am neither a fortune-teller nor a lottery winner.


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Lake Meadows Up Close

(photos by Lee Bey) 

I took a look at Lake Meadows over the weekend. I'm always drawn to a fight and it looks like a good one is going to brew over real estate titan Draper & Kramer's plans to demolish the 50-year-old, 100-acre complex and replace it with an entirely new neighborhood.

Lake Meadows' is best known for its ranks of generously-spaced modernist residential high-rises (some of them seen above) designed by Skidmore Owings & Merrill. These buildings would disappear under the plan. But during my visit, I was drawn to a small public school that appears untouched by the proposed redevelopment, and a professional building that might be in the way of progress.

 

 

 (above) John G. Pershing School

Pershing School is little modernist gem in the northeast corner of Lake Meadows, along 31st Street. The 10-room school was built in 1959 for $478,000 and was designed to house grades K-6. The school was built with a multi-purpose room and medical and psychological testing centers in addition to classroom space. What had to feel pretty revolutionary for an urban school in the late 1950s: each class had views and direct access to the outdoor court and gardens. The next three photos show a little more...

 



I can't find any info on the architect. I'll take a total guess and say Perkins & Will. 

The fate of the Lake Meadows professional building just west of Pershing School seems unclear--to me, at least. The plan, printed in the Crain's piece in the link above, shows a new structure on the building's site. Nevertheless, the building is a handsome, airy piece of architecture, built in 1971.

 

 

The building is still in use, by the way. This has to be the work of SOM.

Lake Meadows began in 1949 when old Chicago Land Clearance Commission condemned the former neighborhood at a price of $16 million and wrote down the land to $2.3 million and sold it New York Life Insurance Co., which built the development. When the complex was completed in the late 1950s, experts from around the world--including Russia--visited in hopes of learning more about the public-private partnership that built Lake Meadows and turned around the once-depressed urban area.

The irony is there was a neighborhood there--my late father grew up in it--but it was branded a slum and demolished in the 1950s to build middle-class Lake Meadows, which could now be demolished for an even more middle-class neighborhood. Life in the big city, I suppose.


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March 07, 2008

Why, isn't this clever..?

(photo by Lee Bey) 

A former payphone at the Grant Park East parking garage has been reduced to a marketing gimmick by people trying to get us to visit South Carolina for winter.


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March 06, 2008

Aqua Rises

(photos by Lee Bey) 

The 80+ story residential highrise, Aqua, takes shape near Randolph and upper Columbus on the western edge of the Lake Shore East development. There is still a ways to go, obviously, but I couldn't help but be impressed by the rhythm and beauty that are already apparent at this early stage.

 

 

(rendering by ImageFiction) 

 

The Urban Observer was so impressed, he decided to catch up with Aqua's architect, Jeanne Gang of the firm Studio/Gang Architects, for a quick talk about the building.

Q. How did Studio/Gang arrive at Aqua's unique look? Was it there from the beginning or did it morph into this shape as designs were refined?

A: The design concept was there from the beginning. The idea was to make the face of the building occupiable which is achieved through extending the floor slabs. Slabs are extended more in some areas to allow site specific views. The shapes were continuously adjusted throughout the design process to coordinate with floor plans, ADA, and to maintain smooth transitions from floor to floor

Q: What particular elements have to be pulled off just right in order to make the building sing, if you will?

A: The most important thing is the concrete and it is already clear that the contractor, McHugh, is doing a great job with that. Next is the glass. We were very careful to select the glass for its performance as well as its color and and reflectivity. As the building goes up, you will start to notice there are different types of glass used, and a very subtle pattern will develop.

Q:What's been the reaction to Aqua far from the public and your fellow professionals?

A. I am just getting back from Dubai where I presented the building at the "Tall and Green" international conference for [Council on Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat]. I am learning that the tall building club is very small, dominated by the larger, more corporate firms. It is unique that we were given the opportunity to design one and I am glad we were able to bring a fresh perspective. After this conference, I wouldn't be surprised to see the design copied and reproduced in China.  I think it has sparked the imagination of the public. I only say that because of the emails and inquiries I've received from lots of different people from all over. It has been published in Italy, Spain, Mexico, Canada, Turkey, and the UAE.
 
Q: An 88-story skyscraper is an unusual project for your firm. How much does Aqua define where the firm goes next? Are there more skyscrapers in the offing?

A:It demonstrates we can achieve large technically complex buildings.We want to do projects that are interesting and where there is architectural ambition. I think there is untapped potential in the tall building type and I hope we will have the opportunity to take it further.


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March 05, 2008

Urban Observer Guest Photographer: Curtis Locke

 

 (photos by Curtis Locke)

I stumbled across the work of photographer Curtis Locke a few weeks ago on the photosite flickr. Each photo is sharp essay on some aspect of Chicago's urban self. Taverns. Two-flats. Ghost signs. Everything is laid bare and revealed. And he clearly digs the South Side, so that makes him good in my book. Curtis "flickrs" under the name kneejerky. (He also writes a blog.)The Urban Observer tracked him down for a few questions. But first, check out some more of his pix:

 


 

 

 

Q: So Curtis...what subjects attract you as a photographer?

A: Representatives of "Old Chicago" (bricks, terra cotta,
water towers, alleys, urban patina); "MY Chicago", an
alternative, personal guide to the Second City that is not
included in the official "Welcome to Chicago" brochure,
places where "nature" and the "built environment"
intersect; all varieties of "signage", especially "ghost
signs" and the evidence of a previous life; vacant lots
symbolizing "emptiness",  "potential", and challenging the
concept of "nothingness"; the sense of transience as
manifested by decay and loss.   

Q:What stories do your images tell?

A: The beauty of the ordinary and  the idiosyncratic.  The
fleeting and enduring nature of an evolving metropolis.

Q: What turned you on to photography?

A: With an "undeclared" minor in photography, I fell in
love with the myth and gothic Rust Belt ruin that was
Cleveland back in the early 1980's, where I attended
college and studied political science. 

Q:Who inspired you as a photographer?

A: Harry Callahan, Art Shay, Camilo Jose Vergara, Ed Ruscha, and contemporaries David Schalliol [known as metroblossom on flickr] and (at the risk of ingratiating myself) Lee Bey
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March 04, 2008

Odds n Ends

(photos by Lee Bey) 

Random photos of stuff taken at odd angles. For you photography buffs, most of these images were taken with my ridiculously sweet and crisp 7-14mm super wide-angle lens, mounted on my trusty but aging Olympus E-500 DSLR. The photo above is a Caddy Fleetwood parked on Stony Island Avenue near the Midway Plaisance in 2007.

 

Singer songwriter Cynthia Lin on the 39th St pedestrian bridge over Lake Shore Drive (2007).

 

 

Me. Fiddling with the seasons and the infrared remote control on my tripod-mounted camera at the University of Chicago Law Library (2007).

 

 Gravity-defying shot (but not really) taken at Archeworks in 2007.


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March 03, 2008

The Lessons of War

(photos by Lee Bey) 

The Munster Veterans Memorial in Munster, Indiana is a series of monuments, each giving tribute the major wars of the 20th century: World War I, World War II, Korea, Vietnam and Desert Storm. And it's the most honest and harrowing war memorials I have ever seen.

You walk away from the work with the typical understanding of valor, pride and heroism that occurs in war. But the monument also shows the physical sacrifice that must be paid in conflict. Like the The World War II soldier in the photo above whose arm is being ripped to shreds on D-Day..

Or this fallen Korean War special forces soldier

 

 Another Korean War special forces fighter, grizzled, tired and holding a genade launcher:

 

A boy, holding the shirt of the father he lost to war:

 

A U.S. helicopter landing in Vietnam:

 

 The memorial was designed by Julie and Omri Rotblatt-Amrany. Read more about it here.

 


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