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July 31, 2007

Millennium Park

(photos by Lee Bey) 

Chicago Mayor Richard M. Daley asked me back in 2003, "So what do you think of the park?" He was talking about nearly-completed Millennium Park. I was a mayoral deputy chief of staff and although I didn't work on Millennium Park (Soldier Field was my project), he and I always had frank discussions about design.

"It's alright," I said. "But it reminds me of a miniature golf course. You go here and see the fountain, then over there to see the artwork. What does it all add up to? I don't know..."

"Well," he said, "Wait until the people get there." That ended that part of our discussion.

I wasn't sold on Millennium Park. I thought it was too much...packed in too small a space. I had visions it would be like the city's Navy Pier: sound and fury signifying nothing. Then the night of the official opening in 2004, my wife and I went down to take a look. When I saw a grown woman in her sport bra, playing in the Crown Fountain with her kids, I figured the park was making a connection to people. Whenever I visit the park, I see Chicagoans and visitors from every corner, mingling, watching, gawking, laughing.

 
Above: A trio of women enjoying lunch at Millennium Park in 2005

I've grown to enjoy the park. It's brought people, activity and development to a part of downtown that was on the bubble only a few years ago. It's one of the few places in this still racially and economically balkanized city where people of various backgrounds can mix.

 
Above: Child frolicks in the Crown Fountain 

Designwise, I reserve the right to feel correct in my opinion about the park. Not that it really matters. The people are there.

 
Above: The fountain and peristyle at the north end of the park.

 


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July 30, 2007

State Street: 1973

 

Here's another installment in my never-ending quest to unearth Chicago's unbuilt plans and proposals---and, also, to re-use stuff from my old website whenever possible.

Today's offering: a 1973 rendering for a new State Street in Chicago's South Loop area. Under the plan, the then-bedraggled street--with its fading businesses, vacant parcels, panhandlers, homeless chaps and the like--would be remade into a Utopian commercial strip with uses divided as neatly as the columns on a business ledger. Retail? It's on the ground floor. Residences? Two flights above the retail. Transportation? If those Mercury Comets and AMC Matadors that are rolling down the lightly-traveled street above won't do, then hop the monorail to the left.

Then, look. Up in the sky. It's an enclosed skybridge where pedestrians could traverse above whatever urban hazard remained after old State Street was bulldozed---as safe as hamsters in a Habitrail.

I shouldn't poke fun. There are a few things here I do like. The design has a post-Habitat '67 vibe. And the green street-edge is okay by me. I rather approve of the subterranean business. Might they be jazz clubs? An after-hours library. Maybe a future foie gras speakeasy with a big guy at named Moe at the door.

 It took 30 years but the South Loop did get much of what was proposed here. The dead zone has been revived with shops and residents running down State Street almost to Cermak. We didn't need the monorail and the skybridge after all.



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July 27, 2007

Window Dressing

(PHOTO BY LEE BEY) 

A photo in the window of a home in Chicago's Pullman neighborhood. 


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July 26, 2007

Inside the Wabash YMCA

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(photo by Lee Bey) 

We seldom venture indoors at the Urban Observer, but today I thought I'd make an exception. This is a detail of a mural inside the Wabash YMCA at 38th and Wabash in the city's Bronzeville community. Once known as the "Colored Man's Y", the building was an important stop for African Americans who arrived in Chicago from the South during the Great Migration of the early to mid 20th century. There were sports, classes and other activities designed to ease the transition from farm to city--all celebrated in this triumphant 1936 mural by African American artist William Edouard Scott. The old Y sat vacant for years until it was rescued by a consortium of local churches in the 1990s. Today, the restored building--is the Renaissance Apartments. And the once battered mural shines again.


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July 25, 2007

Picasso Off Center

(photo by Lee Bey) 

Daley Center Plaza


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July 24, 2007

Skyview

(photo by Lee Bey)

Building under construction at Roosevelt and Halsted. 

 


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July 23, 2007

Kinzie Street Blues

(photo by Lee Bey) 

A view to the south, from atop the IBM Parking garage at Kinzie and Wabash. 


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July 20, 2007

Bleak House

(photos by Lee Bey)

This vacant house on the northwest corner of 45th and Michigan has fascinated me for years. 

The blond, Renaissance Revival-styled house is largely overshadowed by the architectural bombast of the landmark Swift Mansion on the southwest side of the intersection. But its story is as dramatic as that of its neighbors. Maybe more...                                                                

The house was built by John R. Hoxie, a prominent Chicagoan and Social Register-type who help found the Chicago Stockyard and the Stockyards Bank. He owned the world's largest hog ranch--1,500 acres--is Texas. The town of Hoxie, Texas and a street on Chicago's Southeast side are named for him. When Hoxie died in 1896, the funeral was in the home's parlor. Hoxie left his wife, Mary, $6 million, a sum that roughly equals $132 million today. Hoxie family's luck would go downhill afterward.

In 1903. a burglar slipped into the house and stole $3500 in jewels while the family was in the house. According to the Chicago Tribune's account, the criminal scaled the front columns and second-story balustrade and entered a window, all "in the glare of electric light." 

In 1908, Mary Hoxie, a son and her daughter Anna Good were driving through Buffalo NY in the rain. When the chauffeur pulled over and jacked up the car to put chains on the tires for better traction, the auto slipped the jack and tumbled down an embankment, killing Anna Good. At the Michigan Avenue house, Mary's other son, Gilbert received a telegram saying all had survived. He didn't know the truth until he read the next day's newspaper.

 

(Above) An ornate window--mangled a bit with glass block--gives a sense of the home's majesty.

In 1909, Mary Hoxie was sued by the University of Boston Press for refusing to pay $83,000, as promised, for a set of Charles Dickens novels that had been valued at $1 million. Mrs Hoxie found herself in court once again in 1910 when she sued her former son-in-law, Harry Good, for custody of her granddaughter, Katherine, 7. The Goods were divorced at the time of the car accident that killed Katherine's mother; after the accident, Mary Hoxie denied Good permission to his daughter, claiming his real interest was not the girl but her $5,000 a year allowance.

In 1913 Gilbert Hoxie died of heart disease at age 35. He operated a company that created the Hoxie Bullet, a piece of rifle ammunition that was a nasty bit of business. The bullet had a small steel ball embedded in the tip that would spread like a star on impact, tearing gaping holes in whatever---and whoever--it hit. Gilbert left his wife and son $110,000, or about $2 million today.

By 1915, the Hoxies seem to fall from public prominence. Katherine Hoxie surfaced in 1920 at age 17 and was dubbed "Poor Little Rich Girl" by the Chicago Tribune when she asked Cook County Probate Court Judge Henry Horner (the man who'd become governor in 1933) for permission to by a $4,000 car.

"You may have the car," Horner ruled.

"Goody," she replied. She could afford it. Her allowance had grown to $15,000 a year.

 

(Above) Imagine the glass that was once here. 

By 1930, the Hoxies had moved from Michigan Avenue and the house became the Martha Washington Home for Crippled Children. The Martha Washington operations moved in 1943 and the home briefly became the Clarance Cameron White School of Music, named for the noted black composer and violinist. By the 1950a, Bethel AME Church owned the property---and still does. The church itself is one door north.

The church keeps watch over the house. Though barely boarded up, there seems to be no signs of squatters or break ins. Grass is cut. Its future awaits.





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July 19, 2007

Designed with Pride

 

(photos by Lee Bey)

I'm desparately trying not to make this blog an ode to the South Side. But it's hard.

Architecture of the South Side is often overlooked by the news media, the city's architectural tourism mechanism, and many other places where you'd ought to able to turn in order to get a full picture of the city's built environment. It could be excused, perhaps, if the South Side contained only a few pieces of good architecture. But that's not the case. Stroll down King Drive between 35th and 55th. Take a look at Beverly/Morgan Park on the far Southwest Side. Examine the lakeside coolness of South Shore or experience the stately homes of Kenwood. The seas don't boil when you travel south of Roosevelt, I swear.

The South Side can throw you a curve, almost at will. You might find yourself on a street that looks and feels predictable, then wham!--a dose of the unexpected. That's the case with Pride Cleaners at 79th and St. Lawrence. Built in 1959, Pride Cleaners disrups a sober run of 1920s stores and apartments along east 79th Street. It's free-standing marquee-like sign, which must have exploded with bright colors and blinking lights when it was new, grabs the eye long enough to make you notice the building behind it: a modernist dry cleaners with an out-of-this-world, concrete hyperbolic paraboloid roof. 

 

 

(Above): A touch of Las Vagas on 79th Street. 

Architect Gerald Siegwart designed the cleaners, and I'm trying to unearth more information about him. The modernist designed at least one house in Lake Forest, IL and a few suburban bank buildings and grocery stores in the 1950s and 1960s.

The roof is self-supporting, freeing up interior space for the dry cleaning plant and personnel. The cleaners does brisk business with customers coming in and out so quickly, there's barely time to notice the original teal and aquamarine colors schemes and signage are still in tact.

Want to see more? Back in 2003, when I was Mayor Daley's deputy chief of staff, the mayor allowed me to do architecture segments for the city's municipal cable channel and I got a chance to profile Pride Cleaners. If you can get past my goofy glasses and odd enunciation, there is some pretty cool info on Pride and the Googie architectural vernacular to which the cleaners belongs. 



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Jon Lowenstein, Photographer

 
I met a photographer a few days ago who just sent me a link to the website of Chicago photog Jon Lowenstein. Once I pick up my jaw from the keyboard, I'll write more about what a talent this guy is. Until then, check out his incredible views of Chicago and its people.


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July 18, 2007

In Praise of Marina City

 (photos by Lee Bey)

Soaring above the north bank of the Chicago River at State Street, the twin residential towers of Marina City form an image of Chicago that is as indelible as those provided by the Picasso sculpture at Daley Plaza or the bronze lions that stand guard outside the Art Institute.

A made-in-Chicago movie might not feature a shot of the Sears Tower or Wrigley Field, but you can bet money Marina City will make the cut. The spiral-ramped parking garages hold a special allure for filmmakers, as was the case with this quite cool Allstate commercial (and a chase scene from the 1980 filmed-in-Chicago movie that inspired it, The Hunter, starring Steve McQueen.)

Built between 1959 and 1967 an designed by Bertrand Goldberg, Marina City symbolized the New Chicago that emerged under Mayor Richard J. Daley. The complex was planned as self-contained city that would provide top-grade architecture and amenities you couldn't find in the comparatively vanilla suburbs. Marina City featured an office building, a movie theater, a television studio, an ice rink and other features. Architecturally, the corncob-like concrete towers and the saddle-shaped theater (now the House of Blues) sat in relief from the steely, black, glass-box highrises of the day.

 

 (Above) Contrast of the titans: A Marina City tower faces off again with Mies' IBM Building

 
As forests of bland, painted concrete residential towers now grow in Marina City's River North neighborhood, Goldberg's creation seems a quaint throw-back to when it took something more meaningful than a granite counter top and a Jacuzzi tub to entice highrise dwellers. "Look at Marina City," Goldberg once said. "[H]ow would one have done that without other people around him, bankers and owners, feeling as if there could be a new world?"



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July 17, 2007

Bey Watch

(photo by Lee Bey. Of Lee Bey. And for Lee Bey) 

Business columnist David Roeder of the Chicago Sun-Times reports today that I have been named the new executive director of the Chicago Central Area Committee. 'tis true, indeed. I start Aug. 1. The above photo is from 2003, when I was working for Mayor Daley. (I wanted to post a photo of me at work and this was the best I could do.)

But the Urban Observer will continue, fear not. 


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July 16, 2007

The Bank on Stony Island


(photos by Lee Bey)
The old Guaranty Bank & Trust building hasn't housed a commercial transaction--not a legal one, anyway--since it closed a quarter century ago. The vacant building occupies a prime corner on the edge of Jackson Park and yet has eluded demolition and reuse.

Located at 6760 S. Stony Island, the old bank is a fantastic urban ruin--part of a dying breed of neo-classical neighborhood banks that were half-scale versions of their prestigious downtown counterparts. Guaranty greets Stony Island with a quartet of 30-foot tall Doric columns capted with an impressively detailed entablature. Swag elements around the windows and cornice remain intact.

 

(Above) A look at the bank's richly detailed column...in remarkably good condition.

The bank was built in 1923 as Stony Island Trust & Savings. The original plan was for an eight-story building with two floors of banking and six levels of furnished apartments, but the design was pared down. During its life, the bank nearly closed a half-dozen times and took on new names at every turn, becoming Stony Island State Savings in 1930, Southmoor Bank & Trust in 1948 (look closely and you can still see the "Southmoor" name above the columns) then becoming Guaranty Bank in 1950. The Nation of Islam bought the bank in 1973, but operations shut down in 1982. The gracious old building became just another abandoned structure in the Woodlawn community.

But for how much longer, I wonder? Money is flowing in the Woodlawn again. There are new homes and Stony Island seems to be slowly reawakening. Now is the time to investigate preserving this building. Perhaps it won't be a bank again, but the building might have a future as residences, as originally planned. A new scheme could include a well-designed parking structure with ground-floor retail that would be built on the vacant parcel to the north of the building. The facility would providing a place for residents' cars while giving a commercial boost to the street.

 

 (Above) No deposit, no return: the bank's old depository slot

The neighborhood and the city would do well to at least consider preservation. With Woodlawn on the upswing, something is bound to happen to the building. Will it be a new beginning, or a bitter end?

 



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Observed

(photo by Lee Bey)

Young muralists at work beneath the Metra Rock Island overpass at 67th Street west of Wentworth.


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July 13, 2007

Relief

(photo by Lee Bey) 

Summertime, near 73rd and Vincennes.


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July 12, 2007

When Suburbia Came to Chicago

 (photos by Lee Bey)

I took a spin through an old stomping ground recently, the community of Marynook, a postwar subdivision in the Avalon Park community on the South Side.

When I was a kid in the 1970s, we used to drive by here on our way to the long-gone Community discount store at 87th and Greenwood. In high school and college, I had buddies who lived there.  Given much of the South Side's homes were built before 1930 and were sewed like stitches to the city's right-angled street grid, Marynook stood out--leaped out--with its curving streets and colorful modern houses.

Marynook turns 50 this year. Let's hoist a toast...

More than a half-million Chicagoans cleared out of the city between 1960 and 1980. Many of them wound up in new split-level homes neatly arranged on the clean, cul-de-sac streets of suburbia. The city mounted a defense, most notably Marina City, which was an attempt to provide a modernity, a sophistication that you couldn't get in a postwar bedroom community. Then the city built suburban style subdivision on what little undeveloped land was left by then. Of that tact, no development was bigger or more ambitious than Marynook, built between 1957 and 1962 on 70 vacant acres bounded by 87th, 83rd, Dorchester and University.

Marynook was created by developer Joseph E, Merrion a huge figure in mid-century Chicago, but nobody remembers him much today. Merrion built the suburbs of Merrionette Park (a play on his last name, as was Marynook), Country Club Hills and Hometown. He also built Merrionette Manor, a subset of the Jeffrey Manor neighborhood on the Southeast Side. A street there, Merrion Avenue, bears his name.

At Marynook, Merrion built 432 split-level, single family homes and a handful of town homes. It was billed at the time as the biggest residential development in the city. As with smaller Merrionette Manor, Merrion pushed aside the typical street grid in favor of a suburban-style plan of curvilinear streets, driveways and no alleys. Original residents signed covenants agreeing not to alter the exterior of their homes without approval from the neighborhood board.

And there was another thing: Though located on the predominantly black South Side, Marynook was all white when it was built. The first black family arrived in 1962 and residents vowed--in newspapers, anyway--to create a peaceful integrated community. Marynook was half-black by 1968 and nearly all African American buy the time Merrion died in 1973. But the area still held its middle class tenor.

Today, Marynook is a mature, well-tended community. Homeowners still cut their front bushes in geometric Pop-Art shapes that play off the modernist vernacular of the houses. Along 87th Street,  knee-high, house-shaped stone markers inset with the word "MARYNOOK"--long in disrepair--have been renovated by the homeowners.

Architecture of the recent past has become the latest cause for landmark agencies, architectural historians, researchers and preservationists. Marynook is worthy of their attention.





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July 11, 2007

Two Views of the Lake Shore Athletic Club

 

(photo by Preservation Chicago) 

Efforts to save the Lake Shore Athletic Club from demolition are being told in two new video reports recently posted on America's town square: YouTube.

The video by Preservation Chicago covers the group's June 7 protest outside of the building, 850 N. Lake Shore Drive. Demonstrations like these are often short-shrifted to a few seconds on local news. Here, participants are given the time here to provide insightful comments on why the 83-year-old building should be saved.

The other video, Preserving Chicago's Lake Shore Athletic Club is more documentary-like and includes interviews with architecture writer Cheryl Kent, Lost Chicago author David Garrard Lowe and others.

"The purpose of the video is to engage citizens,'' Anna Weaver, creator of the Preserving Chicago's Lake Shore Athletic Club told the Urban Observer. "The video features the commentary of four thoughtful, articulate people ...who suggest the building should remain in situ. I hope viewers' appreciation of the Lake Shore Club is even greater after viewing."

Though made on small budgets, both videos show architecture and preservation advocates are no longer just sitting by the phone, waiting for TV and newspapers to interview them. They're shaping the debate by producing their own media and getting it to people who are interested. Architecture coverage by Chicago mainstream media continues to shrink as outlined here previously by way of Lynn Becker's blog. But the internet is a goldmine for news and views on the local built environment.

 

 

 


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July 10, 2007

Alfred Caldwell's Hidden Garden

 

 (photos by Lee Bey)

I visited the Alfred Caldwell Lily Pool just after sunrise recently. I don't know which struck me more: the tranquil beauty of landscape architect Caldwell's creation or who he kept in mind while designing it.

Located on Fullerton just a few steps west of Cannon, this little sanctuary was built between 1936 and 1938. The late Caldwell, in his writings, referred to the spot as "a hidden garden. And the very poor, naturally without hope of escape in Buicks--the disenfranchised citizens of the slums--could come here."

The Lily Pool is a place of startling beauty. And Caldwell, who died in 1998, was a man of exceeding talent and sensitivies. Read more here, here and here. Meanwhile, let's look around a bit..

 

 

 

 

And who wouldn't love a place like this:

 



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Michael Reese Hospital Closing? Merging?

(photo by Lee Bey)

In today's Chicago Sun-Times and Tribune....interesting news concerning the possible future of Michael Reese Hospital. The Urban Observer profiled the hospital's campus just last month...


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July 09, 2007

New Kennedy King College

(photos by Lee Bey) 

We take our first look today at the new Kennedy-King College campus which officially opens this month at 63rd and Halsted in the Englewood community. The 40 acre-campus is composed of six buildings running along the east side of Halsted Street between 62nd and 65th streets. A quadrangle (above) with a clocktower and green space is the heart of the campus.

 

(above) The southeast corner of 63rd and Halsted, showing the urban, almost mercantile feel of the campus. It is a far cry from the now-mallballed old KKC campus at 69th and Wentworth.

Designed by the Chicago's Johnson & Lee Architects, the campus represents a stunning improvement for the once-beleaguered 63rd and Halsted area. The intersection was once a thriving mini-downtown--the city's most prosperous shopping district outside of the Loop--until Englewood went through racial and economic changes that were all-to-familiar in 1960s and 1970s Chicago. The city tried to preserve the intersection's retail power by turning it into the ill-fated suburban-style Englewood Concourse pedestrian mall. It was a planning mistake only surpassed by the State Street Mall in 1979. Money still changed hands, but in largely low-grade shops that catered to the gold-chain-and-sneaker trade. This for an area that has national retailers as late as 1980. Back in 2005, I photographed some of the remnants of the old mall such as these clocktower kiosks, pedestrian canopies and brick pavers, just before they were mercy-killed by bulldozers.

 

 

(above) A student walks by a trio of first-floor windows framed by light shelves along Halsted.

A theater and broadcast studios for WKKC-FM radio and WYCC-TV are in this complex on  the northeast corner of 63rd and Halsted:

 

Is a two-year college, no matter how impressively-designed, enough of a draw to return Englewood's luster? While taking these photos, I ran into a real estate developer who was also getting the lay of the land. He not only noted the new college but the nearby elevated train station and the easy access to downtown it provides.

"You don't make this kind of investment in an area unless you know something is happening next," he said.


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July 04, 2007

Have a Happy, Safe Fourth of July

The Urban Observer is taking a few days off. Tune back in Monday. Or else.


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July 03, 2007

Soccer finds a New Home

(photos by Lee Bey) 

The demolition of the Stateway Gardens public housing project has left a vast ribbon of open land. That won't last long, of course; development has begun at 35th and State and will be making its way south in due time. 

Until then, the land sits empty, but not entirely unused. I've noticed soccer matches featuring predominantly Latino teams making good use of the new and largely unclaimed greenspace near 40th and State. With the rumbling Green line elevated train and the occasional thumping car stereo providing a sonic backdrop, the organized teams play a vigorous and officiated game of soccer. A small crowd of Hispanic spectators gather, including kids, mothers, 20-somethings and what I presumed to be players from other teams. I'll try to find out more about these games and report back. (While hoping the local MSM doesn't discover the story and dream up some "killing fields-to-soccer fields" angle.) Meanwhile, enjoy the pix:

<A goalie quickly thwarts a potential score.

 

(Above) A player delivers a kick while, in the background, a mother keeps an eye on a future soccer player.

 

(Above) A mini-stampede for the ball.

 

(Above) A little one soaks it all in.


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July 02, 2007

School's Out for Old Kennedy-King College Campus

 

 

(photos by Lee Bey) 
As soon as this week, they'll start boarding up and closing off the old Kennedy-King College. The concrete behemoth that has pounced over 69th and Wentworth for 35 years has been replaced by a new campus at 63rd and Halsted that officially opens July 18.

I took a stroll around the abandoned campus. I was awestruck by the power and confidence of the design--not to mention the buildings sheer size. When I was a child in the 1970s, buildings like these were new--and they always seemed to promise new things, such as closed-circuit television classes. Seeing one at the end of its lifecycle was sobering.

 

Built for $31.1 million, Kennedy King College was the height of modernity when it was completed in 1972. In 1970, the Chicago chapter of the American Institute of Architects bestowed a certificate of merit upon the yet-to-built campus, praising it for the openness of its design.  The building's original 50,000 volume library, swimming pool, daycare center, 500-seat theater and internal gardens and plazas were all originally designed to be shared with the surrounding community. The college's TV station, radio station (WKKC) and even the way the massive building opens at center to allow Wentworth Avenue to pass beneath were all planned as a welcoming gestures to the neighborhood and the surrounding area.

The design by the now-defunct architecture firm of Fitch, Larocca, Carrington & Jones is relentless. With its right angles and large panels of scored concrete, the building resembles the retaining walls of the Chicago Skyway.  Some parts are downright bleak and dystopian, such as this probably well-intentioned covered gathering space near the rear of the complex...

 

...and this open space above Wentworth Avenue. The concrete benches are not bad touches--to look at. Sitting on them is a bit uncomfortable, especially when the only view is an overgrown and ill-kept plaza.

 

(below) I like this, though:

 

The college that opened with much hope in 1972--the theater premiered with a production of Rodgers & Hammerstein's Allegro--wound up being a nightmare to secure and maintain. When I worked in the mayor's office, a City College official told me the building 26 different roof levels. "And they all leak," he said. There were long expanses of corridors that were not lined with classes--they were simply conduits to get people from one side of the building to another. Factor in years of deferred maintenance that is de rigeur with all public buildings and its easy to see why a new college was warranted.

There are no current plans to reuse the old building, although sources say the city Planning Department might be prepare documents to test the waters for potential developer interest in the 20-acre site. Until then, the Kennedy King stands alone and empty. Its only purpose now is to direct people to the new college a few miles away.

 

 


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